Pottery exhibition at Limeuil

On Saturday and Sunday, 26 and 27 July, the Aquitaine potters once again put on their superb annual exhibition of the local talent.
This year a total of 50 carefully selected potters came to the water's edge of the confluence of the vezere and the Dordogne rivers and there, under the trees, the beautifully colourful umbrellas and the crystal clear blue summer sky, there was a feast for the eye.

This year it was Spain that provided the inspiration for the exhibition - and five potters from Spain were invited to participate.

As well as this huge selection, there was also a demonstration and hands-on workshop for children in the afternoons, and adults could try their hand at coil building and even throwing on the potters wheel.

I was delighted to meet Michael Kay and Sue, and when I got myself a delicious plate of Poulet Basquaise from one of the food stalls for lunch, Michael kindly invited me to join him at the potters' lunch table under the trees where we shared our food and wine and had fascinating conversations with the rest of the potters.

I could of course not resist temptation and came away with the best item on the exhibition -- an exquisite bowl of Mathieu Robert from Ponce sur Loire - but there were quite a few more items that I could easily have brought home -- alas! they will have to wait for next year.......







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Protected nature : Eco Tourism in the Aquitaine : A hundred reasons why this is the best place in Europe to come spend your Summer Holiday in 2008!

On a wonderful site, Aquitaine - The South at its best which is about this region, there is an excellent article on Eco-Tourism in France. France has always been at the forefront of eco-tourism and managing the fine balance between being one of the most visited and popular tourist destinations of Europe, and preserving the exquisite nature and unique sites that make it so. Aquitaine, France’s third-biggest region, has a multitude of protected natural zones and offers a great variety of sites dedicated to green tourism.

Starting with… the ocean blue! The Atlantic runs for 250 km along the western side of Aquitaine, with endless beaches of fine sand.

Surfers, cyclists, enthusiasts of thalassotherapy and ornithology can all enjoy the sea air in all seasons. The MIACA (an inter-ministerial commission for the development of the Atlantic coastline) has protected this area since 1967.

Heading east from the ocean, you cross the immense pine forest running from the Medoc down to the Landes and the Basque Country, covering a triangle of land 150 km wide and 200 km long.

It is in this area that lies the Landes de Gascogne Regional Nature Park, and in it, the Maison de la Nature of the Bay of Arcachon (including Le Teich Ornithological Park), the three sites of the Ecomuseum in Marquèze, Moustey and Luxey, and a large number of nature reserves.

Educational workshops, rides along the cycling tracks or sailing on the natural lakes are all good ways of discovering this area’s many riches.

Another big “green” area is the Dordogne forestland. In the north of this département, Green Périgord is home to the Aquitaine section of the Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Park.
Here you will find a multitude of tree species, including oak, the preferred home of the famous Périgord truffles. Prehistoric Man probably enjoyed this delicacy 400,000 years ago…

Much further south, don your snowshoes and climb the peaks of the Pyrenees. This is the realm of hiking, fishing and winter sports. Certain plant and animal species often find their last refuge in the Pyrenees National Park.

Mountains are of course the place where water starts to flow… Torrents - ideal for fishing and white-water sports – which then become rivers and canals. A whole network of inland waterways provide an invitation for barge trips.

In both the Pyrenees and the Périgord area, natural caves display the underground riches of Aquitaine.

Lastly, we should not forget the presence all over Aquitaine of parks and gardens, both contemporary and traditional.

So many sites to discover; so many ways of visiting the beautiful region of Aquitaine.



Looking for accommodation in the Aquitaine? Look no further:

An idyllic stay in a French chateau on the banks of the Dordogne River

A beautiful apartment in an historic stone building centrally located in Bordeaux

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La Roque St-Christophe - suffers severe fire damage

In the heart of the Vézère valley, between Les Eyzies-- which is regarded as the 'world capital' of Prehistory-- and Montignac -- where Lascaux II is found, is the magnificent troglodyte city of La Roque St-Christophe, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the 'musts' on my list for visitors to Chateau Lalinde to see.


How ironic that this site, which has been a troglodyte city for the last 55 000 years -- right up to the 16th century, should now, in 2007, be closed to visitors. On 31 August a huge fire broke out -- apparently due to an electrical fault -- which burnt down the entire reception area -- a beautifully designed glass and timber structure which melded in so perfectly with the natural rock and ancient historical structures already in place.


What a disappointment to arrive there yesterday with visitors and find that we could not climb up to the city and wander around in pre-history for a couple of fascinating and enjoyable hours. But the friendly official on site -- specifically there to apologise to visitor for the inconvenience and recommend other sites in the area to viist instead, informed us that the site will be open again in 2008 -- ready for the next summer season of tourists to the Dordogne area.

Information: La Roque St-Christophe is a pre-historic troglodyte site dating from the Mousterian era, which has been lived in by successive generations of man. Its situation is very dramatic with good views, rising vertically 80m from the Vezère valley. The whole site is half a mile long and rises in five galleries dug out from the rock. The fascinating remains of some of the buildings can be seen – like the Church, as well as some medieval weaponry, while other parts of the site have been excellently reconstructed.
Our recommendations: For children this is possibly the most interesting above ground pre-historic site – particularly for those who are not keen on either underground visits or families who prefer an unguided visit (leaflet provided with an English translation). It is possible to take a light-weight buggy around the site although care is needed in places.
Location: Just off the D706 at Le Moustier, 10km NE of Les Eyzies.
Free parking, small café and picnic tables at the site with lots of shade, a little pond -- and duck happy to receive a few crumbs.
General info: Opening times – daily in peak season 10.00 -7.00.
Tel: 05 53 50 70 45 other times.

Related Article: The Birthplace of Man

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Bordeaux : A Feast for the body and soul

Bordeaux : Centre of Wine, Food, the Arts and Shopping -- A Culture Vulture's paradise!
As Alain Juppe, the Mayor of Bordeaux says:

The world capital of wine, famous for its excellent lifestyle, Bordeaux also features some of Europe's most charming and impressive examples of 18th century architecture.
Located in the heart of a region offering countless attractions, Bordeaux combines celebration, great wines, and first class cuisine.

The excellent public transport makes getting around so easy -- the tram system introduced a few years ago has revolutionised Bordeaux and probably made it one of the visitor-friendliest cities in the world. The trams are convenient and quick and excellent value. There are many underground parking garages all over the city and finding ones way into the city is made easy with many clear signs indicating where the different areas and the different parking garages are.

The Quartiers of Bordeaux:
The Triangle
The triangle is formed by the Allees de Tourney, Cours Georges Clemenceau and Cours de l'Intendence. This is the city's heart where every kind of shop, every type of restaurant, and every class of hotel can be found to suit every person's taste.

Rue St Catherine
Stretching from the aristocratic Place de la Comedie to the student district at Place de la Victoire, it is the longest pedestrian-only street in Europe. It is lined with many of France's best known retail outlets -- and it is crossed by the other very interesting pedestrian streets such as Rue de la Porte Dijeaux, as well as the bigger arterials such as Rue Alsace Lorraine and Cours Victor Hugo. A giant open air shopper's paradise!


Quartier Saint-Pierre
The Saint-Pierre district is a maze of cobble stoned streets and alleys amongst the beautiful stone buildings of Bordeaux -- many of which are craftsmen’s and artist's studios and galleries. The district also features avant-garde showrooms - and some of the most spectacular examples of the massive restoration project which the entire Bordeaux is undergoing. Saint-Pierre's many little squares tucked away amongst the buildings offer outdoor restaurants and cafes and wherever you decide to sit and enjoy a meal or a glass of wine, you will also have a lovely - and often entertaining view of your surroundings.

Quartier St Michel
This has always been a district where beautiful antiques and unusual second-hand items can be found. There is a flea market as well as a second-hand and bric-a-brac gallery, and a colourful variety of Mediterranean and especially Moroccan grocery shops and bazaars -- with a feast of colour and smell and sound. People who enjoy hunting for good deals will just love this area, which is also much appreciated by students - and tourists in the know.

Les Chartrons
This is a virtually self-sufficient district with a village atmosphere and plenty of quality boutiques. The district includes Rue Notre Dame, a street full of antique dealers, second-hand shops and art galleries, as well as Rue du Faubourg des Arts which has recently become the area for serious artists and designers. Les Chartrons is reputedly the developing 'in' place to be in Bordeaux and there are still some interestingly-priced properties to be had for the prospective buyer, but you will have to be quick, as the prices are going up as we speak.


When you wander through the market, you may see a table with a hot plate and a large pot of soup simmering........ Bring a vegetable, take a seat in the shade under one of the lovely trees, peel your vegetable and then give it to the man with the bright floral apron. While he is cutting up your vegetable into the soup pot, you can enter a small cubicle and listen to someone tell you a fascinating little two minutes story............. And comes lunch time, return to the table under the trees and the man in the apron will give you a delicious cup of the 'composed' soup! ----What a lovely way to spend a Saturday morning!
 


On the river there may be a cruise liner from some exotic shores that is in port for the night, or there may be a opera costume festival where you can try on well know opera figures' costumes, or an interesting exhibition in the Aquitaine Museum, or street musicians performing for passers-by - for the pure pleasure of it, or perhaps a slightly more formal dinner and music recital in Cafe Louis adjacent to the Opera House... always something going on and always something for everyone's taste....

Related Links:
Bordeaux: Renaissance of a City
Morocco comes to Bordeaux
Wine Tasting in Bordeaux

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Beautiful gardens in the Aquitaine

One of the many pleasures of living in France or coming here on holiday, renting a chateau or a gite and spending time discovering the beautiful Dordogne, is visiting the magnificent gardens of the region. Whether they are formal gardens, such as at Marqueyssac, or the garden of a friend in a private home, such as Josette's garden in Couze, this is a garden lover's paradise and choice abounds.

This weekend, for the third time, La Chartreuse du Colombier, near Paunat opened their gardens for visitors. A chartreuse is "not a manor house nor a farm house, but something in between -- a place in which to dream and to remember, to live well and to have harmonious conversations with friends . Often at its side a pigeon coop, surrounded by vineyards, terraces, a walled garden -- the perfect place in which to practise the very fine - and refined art of living....." -- Such is the way Christiane de Nicolay-Mazery describes a chartreuse, and in particular La Chartreuse du Colombier, in her book "Maison de famille, le temps retrouve".


A map of all the gardens one can visit in the Aquitaine.

Dordogne

1. Château de HAUTEFORT
2. Les Jardins de l'Imaginaire - TERRASSON
3. Château de Losse -THONAC
4. Manoir d'Eyrignac - SALIGNAC
5. Jardins de Cadiot - CARLUX
6. Jardin tropical - LA ROQUE GAGEAC
7. Jardin de Conty - SAINT GERMAIN DE BELVÈS
8. Jardins de Marqueyssac - VÉZAC
9. Bambous de Planbuisson - BUISSON DE CADOUIN
10. Jardin de la Chartreuse de Monbrun - VERDON
11. Jardins de Sardy - VÉLINES
12. Limodore, jardin sauvage - CERCLES
13. Jardins de Clauzuroux - CHAMPAGNE-ET-FONTAINE
14. Domaine de Pouthet - EYMET
15. Jardin de la Brande - FOULEIX
16. Jardins du Château de Montréal - ISSAC
17. Jardins du Château de Jumilhac - JUMILHAC-LE-GRAND
18. Jardins de la Bigotie - MARSALÈS
19. Jardins du Château Monestier la Tour - MONESTIER
20. Parc botanique du Château - NEUVIC-SUR-L'ISLE
21. Jardins de la Chartreuse du Colombier - PAUNAT
22. Jardins des Arènes - Jardin de Vesoire - Chemin de Halage - PÉRIGUEUX
23. Jardins de l'Albarede - SAINT-CYBRANET
24. Jardins du château de Caudon - DOMME
25. Jardin du plantier et de la sous-préfecture - SARLAT-LA-CANÉDA
26. Jardin de la Bourlie - URVAL
27. Jardins de Chaunac - VITRAC

Gironde

1. Jardins du château de VAYRES
2. Château Branda - CADILLAC
3. Jardin Botanique - Parc de La Rivière - BORDEAUX
4. Parc du château de Lanessan - CUSSAC-FORT-MÉDOC
5. Parc bordelais - BORDEAUX
6. Château de Montgénan - PORTETS
7. Parc Chavat - PODENSAC
8. Château de Malle - PREIGNAC
9. Jardin des vignes du Château Nairac - BARSAC
10. Jardin du Château de Malleret - CADAUJAC
11. Jardin Médiéval de la Commanderie Sallebruneau - FRONTENAC
12. Parc du Château de Thil - LÉOGNAN
13. Jardins publics du Parc de l'Epinette / du Poilu / du square du XVe Dragon - LIBOURNE
14. Parc du domaine du Coq - MÉRIGNAC
15. Parc du Château de Cazeneuve - PRÉCHAC
16. Musée et labyrinthe gourmands "Oh! Légumes oubliés" - SADIRAC
17. Jardins du Château d'Yquem - SAUTERNES
18. Jardin de l'abbaye de la Sauve-Majeure - LA SAUVE

Landes

1. Parc du Sarrat - DAX
2. Plantarium de GAUJACQ
3. Les Prés d'Eugenie - EUGÉNIE LES BAINS
4. Parc du Château de Ravignan - PERQUIE

Lot-et-Garonne

1. Pépinières Latour-Marliac - TEMPLE SUR LOT
2. Parc de la Garenne - NÉRAC
3. Jardin de Jayan - Parc de l'Hôtel du Département - AGEN
4. Jardins de la Guite Basse - AURADOU
5. Jardin de Boissonna - BALEYSSAGUES
6. Vegetales Visions - COLAYRAC-SAINT-CIRQ
7. Iriseraie de Papon - LAPLUME
8. Parc de la mairie - LAVARDAC
9. Serres municipales de la ville et jardins du carroussel - MARMANDE
10. Jardins paysagers du Mézinais - MÉZIN
11. Domaine de Barolle - MONTESQUIEU
12. Le jardin de Baque - MONTGAILLARD
13. Jardin Carlane - PENNE D'AGENAIS
14. Jardins du Claou - SAINT-SYLVESTRE-SUR-LOT

Pyrénées Atlantiques

1. Jardins du château de Mascaraas - GARLIN
2. Jardin du château de VIVEN
3. Les Parcs de PAU
4. Jardins du château de Momas - LESCAR
5. Château de LAAS
6. Château de TROIS-VILLES
7. Villa Anarga - CAMBO LES BAINS
8. Florenia - URRUGNE
9. Jardin du Château de Mongaston - CHARRE
10. Jardin de la Lézardière - ESPOEY
11. Roseraie de Barbary - SAINT-VINCENT
12. Domaine de Chocha - USTARITZ



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Thunderstorms continue over the Southwest of France

Thank you to all the readers who have written, and even called to commiserate on the floods -- and for all the offers of help to mop up and clean up after the floods during the night! With friends like you, the firemen can continue to be on standby for those who have had it far worse than Chateau Lalinde. One can only hope that the rain will abate a little now for all the people on mid-term holiday in France - and especially for all my guests who are renting the chateau this week.

The violent storms caused much damage throughout the Southwest and in particular in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques and in Ariège There has been only one casualty as a result - an aged woman who was found drowned in her kitchen.

South of Pau about 500 people have had to be evacuated from their homes and more than 100 firemen in that area have been working tirelessly answering calls for help. But it is in the Midi-Pyrénées where the storm was at its most violent this morning at 01h00 and where an extra 50 firemen from neighbouring départements came to assist the 100+ already in that area. Helicopters were also called in to help in extreme cases. Several roads in the Aquitaine are closed, and pre-school centres in more than 12 communes were closed today.


In other areas of France the storms are also continuing,

and here in Lalinde, it continues to rain --- outside --- and inside the chateau! Now, why did I not think to call a handsome pompier for help?......



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