Showing posts with label Rent a chateau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rent a chateau. Show all posts

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Finally: In full preparation to walk the Camino!




"This is the way of peace:
Overcome evil with good,
and falsehood with truth,
and hatred with love."[/i][/b]
....Peace Pilgrim





Why make this pilgrimage?

I have always had a yearning to do things that challenge me -- to take the road less travelled, to explore the unknown territory. Deciding to walk the Camino de Santiago-- making the pilgrimage to Santiago Compostela, is not taking a road less travelled -- on the contrary -- thousands walk this road every year! Nor is it unknown territory -- it is probably the best known pilgrimage of all time. But for me it will be -- finally taking on this challenge that I had set myself several years ago will be the road less travelled and an unknown territory in my personal life in every sense.`


Father Frank de Gouveia said:

“Every major religion has a tradition and practice of pilgrimage.

Pilgrimage is a ritual journey, either alone or in a group, with the aim of achieving purification, perfection or salvation; a religious experience in which a series of bonds are established between a place of this world and a higher sphere, between an individual traveller and a community, between a flesh-and-blood pilgrim and he who is reborn, purified by the consummation of his goal. These bonds are what distinguish pilgrimage from other types of journey or travel.

Pilgrimage requires a sacred journey, a sacred place and a sacred goal. The sacred place may take many forms – a tree, a spring, a mountain, or a place where holy relics are revered. On the journey – a metaphor of earthly life – a personal transformation is initiated and effected through a series of rites that culminate in the moment of arrival. Here, his goal attained, the pilgrim is reborn, a new man.
”

All the above refers to pilgrims in the traditional sense. Of course, many people do the camino for other reasons – they may be keen walkers who want to do a truly long walk, they may want to walk on Roman roads or see famous places, they may want to find themselves or ponder the meaning of life and their place in it. They may be religiously motivated or simply look for a spiritual experience. They may hope to find the reason for their need to make the pilgrimage along the way....

Pilgrims have been travelling to Santiago de Compostela on foot or horseback for over a thousand years. (The Bishop of Le Puy, who went there in AD 950, was one of the first). Some say the cult of the spiritual traveller along the path existed even earlier as the way led to Cape Finisterre the end of the known world.

The route to Santiago was a Roman trade-route. It was nicknamed by travellers la voje ladee, the Milky Way. It was the road under the stars. The pale arm of the Milky Way that stretched out and pointed the way to the edge of the known world : to Cape Finisterre, and Santiago --- far away under the mists and Atlantic skies of Galicia, woods and water in a Celtic landscape of menhirs and lost gods that exert an appeal that is infinitely pre Christian.

Its 800 kilometers from the Saint Jean Pied de Port in the foothills of the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela in the western reaches of Galicia have changed little in that time. For although sections of it have now become modern tarred roads and many of the refuges and other accommodation set up by religious orders along the way to minister to the needs of pilgrims have long since disappeared, the Camino still passes through the same villages, crosses the same rivers, visits the same chapels, churches, cathedrals and other monuments as did the path taken by our predecessors in centuries gone by.

At the height of its popularity in the eleventh and twelfth centuries over half a million people a year are said to have made the pilgrimage from different parts of Europe, the majority of them from France.

The high point of the pilgrimage occurred between the years 1000 and l500 but although numbers dwindled after that, due to the Reformation and other, political, factors, the stream of pilgrims making the trudge westwards to the far reaches of Galiciain north-west Spain never completely dried up and in the late twentieth century is making something of a comeback.

Several thousand people walk the Way of St James (Sant' Iago) every year, whether from the Pyrenees, from different parts of France or from even further afield: it is not uncommon, even nowadays, to meet Swiss, German, Belgian or Dutch pilgrims, for example, who have set out from home to make the entire journey on foot. The Cathedral authorities in Santiago maintain a register of pilgrims and in 1991 recorded a total of 7274 travelling on foot, bicycle or horseback (compared with 5760 in 1989, the year of the Pope's August visit there, and 4918 in 1990).


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  • Friday, August 03, 2007

    Back home!





    It feels as if I have been away forever -- flying around the world and experiencing the most amazing things along the way.

    -- but it is good to back next to the Dordogne, the sound of the river waking me in morning, the farmers setting up their stalls for the morning market, the ducks squabbling below my window, the swans gliding serenely by (still no sign of little ones!), many of the fields that were lush and green when I left, now harvested and bare..............

    But the tourists have arrived! In their thousands. Cars clogging up the bridge, people milling about, queues outside anything that looks like it could be worthwhile writing home about......... I had forgotten what August was like in the Southwest of France!

    And this afternoon the first of my guests arrive -- and once again Chateau Lalinde will be humming with excited voices and laughter and people enjoying the pure pleasure of discovering the wonder of opening their bedroom windows onto the magnificent view of the Dordogne river!




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  • Wednesday, July 04, 2007

    Bring on the Champagne! The New Chateau Lalinde Website is launched!



    Thanks to the amazingly talented -- and patient -- team of Lesley Trett at BlueSky Graphics and Colin Lawrence of ChilliSplash Web Design and Hosting, and all the many friends who have helped read, and read, and read again, Chateau Lalinde's new website is finally launched -- and looking beautiful!

    Please come visit and tell us what you think if it!

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  • Tuesday, July 03, 2007

    The Mascaret : The Bore on the Dordogne and the Gironde

    NOW is the time to start preparing to have your surfboard or your paddle ski waxed and ready to catch that Big Wave on the Aquitaine rivers!


    Last year in August I reported on the Mascaret, or the tidal bore on the Aquitaine rivers, but Pierre and I missed the waves because we were not prepared -- this year Pierre and his surf board are in Mexico, and I have a house full of beautiful people renting the Chateau Lalinde for the summer holidays, but I do not intend missing the mascaret, or the tidal bore on the Dordogne or the Gironde once again!

    Two weeks ago when Bordeaux celebrated the river (the Gironde) during the Festival of the River, I was all agog to hear where and which day the best spot was going to be this year to catch the big waves on the rivers. But no luck. Those in the know stay mum on the secrets of the place and time of the best waves. I can understand why -- anyone who has ever surfed a mascaret or tidal bore, know that if half the world is there in the water with you, there is not much pleasure for the surfer. This is one time when sharing is not fun!

    But! -- a scoop for the Chateau Lalinde blog! I have the time table of the best waves on the Gironde for 2007!




    The Festival of the Mascaret is from the 1st to the 2nd of September this year, but looking at the timetable, I would say be ready with your surfboard on the 29th August onwards. The coefficient - anything above 100 is excellent and these are the numbers for that period:

    Wednesday 29 August : 103 : at 17h55
    Thursday 30 August : 107 : at 18h35
    Friday 31 August : 104 : at 19h15
    Saturday 1 September: 100 : at 07h40
    95 : at 19h55
    Sunday 2 September : 89 : at 08h15
    81 : at 20h40

    The mascaret forms in different places on the river and in different widths and heights. But the best, according to the connoisseurs, are:

    On the Dordogne River: at Saint-Pardon (where the wave can be as high as 2.5 meters in height) a few kilometres from Libourne
    On the Garonne River : between Langoiran and Podensac (2,5 m in height)

    Christian Rollet, the president of the masacaret association of Saint-Pardon de Vayres, says : "The advantage of the mascaret here in the Aquitaine, is its length and height. Compared with any other bore in Europe, the French mascaret lasts at least 1.4 kilometres --- that gives you at least 10 minutes of surfing!"
    That, and the unique ambiance of the surfers - with ages ranging from 7 to 77 years, makes the mascaret in France a very special experience -- and one not to be missed!
    And the best place? A little bird told me that the best place to be for the best wave is without a doubt St Pardon.



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  • Sunday, June 03, 2007

    Beautiful gardens in the Aquitaine



    One of the many pleasures of living in France or coming here on holiday, renting a chateau or a gite and spending time discovering the beautiful Dordogne, is visiting the magnificent gardens of the region. Whether they are formal gardens, such as at Marqueyssac, or the garden of a friend in a private home, such as Josette's garden in Couze, this is a garden lover's paradise and choice abounds.

    This weekend, for the third time, La Chartreuse du Colombier, near Paunat opened their gardens for visitors. A chartreuse is "not a manor house nor a farm house, but something in between -- a place in which to dream and to remember, to live well and to have harmonious conversations with friends . Often at its side a pigeon coop, surrounded by vineyards, terraces, a walled garden -- the perfect place in which to practise the very fine - and refined art of living....." -- Such is the way Christiane de Nicolay-Mazery describes a chartreuse, and in particular La Chartreuse du Colombier, in her book "Maison de famille, le temps retrouve".


    A map of all the gardens one can visit in the Aquitaine.


    Dordogne

    1. Château de HAUTEFORT
    2. Les Jardins de l'Imaginaire - TERRASSON
    3. Château de Losse -THONAC
    4. Manoir d'Eyrignac - SALIGNAC
    5. Jardins de Cadiot - CARLUX
    6. Jardin tropical - LA ROQUE GAGEAC
    7. Jardin de Conty - SAINT GERMAIN DE BELVÈS
    8. Jardins de Marqueyssac - VÉZAC
    9. Bambous de Planbuisson - BUISSON DE CADOUIN
    10. Jardin de la Chartreuse de Monbrun - VERDON
    11. Jardins de Sardy - VÉLINES
    12. Limodore, jardin sauvage - CERCLES
    13. Jardins de Clauzuroux - CHAMPAGNE-ET-FONTAINE
    14. Domaine de Pouthet - EYMET
    15. Jardin de la Brande - FOULEIX
    16. Jardins du Château de Montréal - ISSAC
    17. Jardins du Château de Jumilhac - JUMILHAC-LE-GRAND
    18. Jardins de la Bigotie - MARSALÈS
    19. Jardins du Château Monestier la Tour - MONESTIER
    20. Parc botanique du Château - NEUVIC-SUR-L'ISLE
    21. Jardins de la Chartreuse du Colombier - PAUNAT
    22. Jardins des Arènes - Jardin de Vesoire - Chemin de Halage - PÉRIGUEUX
    23. Jardins de l'Albarede - SAINT-CYBRANET
    24. Jardins du château de Caudon - DOMME
    25. Jardin du plantier et de la sous-préfecture - SARLAT-LA-CANÉDA
    26. Jardin de la Bourlie - URVAL
    27. Jardins de Chaunac - VITRAC

    Gironde

    1. Jardins du château de VAYRES
    2. Château Branda - CADILLAC
    3. Jardin Botanique - Parc de La Rivière - BORDEAUX
    4. Parc du château de Lanessan - CUSSAC-FORT-MÉDOC
    5. Parc bordelais - BORDEAUX
    6. Château de Montgénan - PORTETS
    7. Parc Chavat - PODENSAC
    8. Château de Malle - PREIGNAC
    9. Jardin des vignes du Château Nairac - BARSAC
    10. Jardin du Château de Malleret - CADAUJAC
    11. Jardin Médiéval de la Commanderie Sallebruneau - FRONTENAC
    12. Parc du Château de Thil - LÉOGNAN
    13. Jardins publics du Parc de l'Epinette / du Poilu / du square du XVe Dragon - LIBOURNE
    14. Parc du domaine du Coq - MÉRIGNAC
    15. Parc du Château de Cazeneuve - PRÉCHAC
    16. Musée et labyrinthe gourmands "Oh! Légumes oubliés" - SADIRAC
    17. Jardins du Château d'Yquem - SAUTERNES
    18. Jardin de l'abbaye de la Sauve-Majeure - LA SAUVE

    Landes

    1. Parc du Sarrat - DAX
    2. Plantarium de GAUJACQ
    3. Les Prés d'Eugenie - EUGÉNIE LES BAINS
    4. Parc du Château de Ravignan - PERQUIE

    Lot-et-Garonne

    1. Pépinières Latour-Marliac - TEMPLE SUR LOT
    2. Parc de la Garenne - NÉRAC
    3. Jardin de Jayan - Parc de l'Hôtel du Département - AGEN
    4. Jardins de la Guite Basse - AURADOU
    5. Jardin de Boissonna - BALEYSSAGUES
    6. Vegetales Visions - COLAYRAC-SAINT-CIRQ
    7. Iriseraie de Papon - LAPLUME
    8. Parc de la mairie - LAVARDAC
    9. Serres municipales de la ville et jardins du carroussel - MARMANDE
    10. Jardins paysagers du Mézinais - MÉZIN
    11. Domaine de Barolle - MONTESQUIEU
    12. Le jardin de Baque - MONTGAILLARD
    13. Jardin Carlane - PENNE D'AGENAIS
    14. Jardins du Claou - SAINT-SYLVESTRE-SUR-LOT

    Pyrénées Atlantiques

    1. Jardins du château de Mascaraas - GARLIN
    2. Jardin du château de VIVEN
    3. Les Parcs de PAU
    4. Jardins du château de Momas - LESCAR
    5. Château de LAAS
    6. Château de TROIS-VILLES
    7. Villa Anarga - CAMBO LES BAINS
    8. Florenia - URRUGNE
    9. Jardin du Château de Mongaston - CHARRE
    10. Jardin de la Lézardière - ESPOEY
    11. Roseraie de Barbary - SAINT-VINCENT
    12. Domaine de Chocha - USTARITZ



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  • Saturday, May 26, 2007

    Thunderstorms continue over the Southwest of France

    Thank you to all the readers who have written, and even called to commiserate on the floods -- and for all the offers of help to mop up and clean up after the floods during the night! With friends like you, the firemen can continue to be on standby for those who have had it far worse than Chateau Lalinde. One can only hope that the rain will abate a little now for all the people on mid-term holiday in France - and especially for all my guests who are renting the chateau this week.

    The violent storms caused much damage throughout the Southwest and in particular in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques and in Ariège There has been only one casualty as a result - an aged woman who was found drowned in her kitchen.

    South of Pau about 500 people have had to be evacuated from their homes and more than 100 firemen in that area have been working tirelessly answering calls for help. But it is in the Midi-Pyrénées where the storm was at its most violent this morning at 01h00 and where an extra 50 firemen from neighbouring départements came to assist the 100+ already in that area. Helicopters were also called in to help in extreme cases. Several roads in the Aquitaine are closed, and pre-school centres in more than 12 communes were closed today.


    In other areas of France the storms are also continuing,

    and here in Lalinde, it continues to rain --- outside --- and inside the chateau! Now, why did I not think to call a handsome pompier for help?......



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  • Storms over the Dordogne : and in Chateau Lalinde!

    Just as Chateau Lalinde is standing all 'dressed up' for this week's visitors, rooms ready, towels fluffed, fresh flowers everywhere -- big drama! In the middle of the night a storm broke over the Dordogne with thunder and lighting -- and very heavy rain. A deluge! I got up out of bed to come downstairs to check that the pool was not overflowing, only to find a waterfall cascading down the marble staircase! There must be a blocked gutter up on the roof, for the water was simply streaming through the ceiling over the double volume staircase, running down the stairs, down the walls, flooding the floor in the entrance hall. soaking carpets and drenching the furniture.

    La Bella di Firenze put her arms over her head and exclaimed "Un inondazione del Noah!", and Cromwell the pig just sat there, dazed, wet and miserable.

    So -- back to work to get everything dry and cleaned up again -- before the guests arrive!


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  • Wednesday, May 23, 2007

    Unethical to eat chocolates!


    Thank goodness for the beautiful flower markets in the Dordogne! One of the joys of living in France and in the Dordogne in particular, is that here every flower is grown with love in the land which we love, picked with love and enjoyed by all! On a Saturday morning I can walk across the village square to the Lalinde fresh produce market-- to the corner under the 'halles' where a lovely local woman brings the pickings of her garden from that morning. Bunches of something of everything. For next to nothing I can buy bunches and bunches of flowers of every colour, every perfume and fill the chateau with fresh flowers for the week!

    But then I read a blog entry by James Forsyth on Coffeehouse -- and I can but shake my head in wonder!!

    Hollywood, friend of cheap dates everywhere


    Leonardo di-Caprio and Blood Diamond gave men an excuse not to buy their wives and girlfriends diamonds on the grounds that they were ethically tainted. Now Julia Roberts is going to star in a movie that will do the same for flowers, reports New York Magazine.

    The film, based on the Vanity Fair essay ‘A Flowering Evil’, will tell the tale of the conservationist Joan Root who struggled to save Lake Naivasha in Kenya from the flower farm industry before being murdered earlier this year.

    All Hollywood needs to do now is to make a good thriller about the evils of the chocolate industry and tight-wads the world over will be able to say, "I'm not cheap, I'm ethical."


    Hear! Hear!


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  • Monday, May 14, 2007

    Josephine Baker : Still in the News



    I have mentioned Josephine Baker on several occasions in the Chatea Lalinde blog -- as have others, such as Suzanna Clarke, Arts Editor of the Courier Mail, Australian, in her article about the Dordogne and Chateau Lalinde.

    How can one NOT mention this remarkable woman when you talk about the Dordogne Valley and its heritage! Josephine Baker left such deep footprints in the banks of the Dordogne River, with her beautiful home, Les Milandes, her exceptional contribution to the Resistance during WWII, her family of 'Rainbow children' - adopted from many different regions and backgrounds, and her outstanding success as an artist, adored by the French nation.

    But the latest reason for Josephine Baker to be back in the news, has nothing to do with any of these things. The reson she is back in the news - yet again! - is because of the now very famous skirt of bananas that she wore - or, that was ALL she wore, and so outraged and/or delighted Paris back in the Twenties!

    Agence France Presse reports in New York that the American postal services had difficulty in accepting postcards depicting Josephine Baker in her banana skirt, feathers and bare breasts for mailing!

    Apparently Jean-Claude Baker, the thirteenth adopted child in the Rainbow of Josephine's family, owns a restaurant in New York, "Chez Joséphine", and had decided to use the picture of his mother a la banana skirt, feathers and bare breasts, for his publicity mailing. However, when he arrived at the post office to mail the 15 000 postcards, the Post Office worker was mortified. "That will not do at all, sir! I cannot accept these card for mailing. It is explicit pornographic material!", exclaimed the worker.


    Jean-Claude took his 15 000 cards to the printer and asked that he covers the offending breast by 'painting' in a scarf. But once again, the cards were refused. The Post Office worker managed to see -- it is not reported whether this was with or without a magnifying glass -- the tip of one breast peeping through the scarf.
    The scarf was enlarged, and Josephine managed to slip into the post box.
    This time an advocate for civil liberty at the NYCLU got wind of the incident and stepped in. "It was a misunderstanding!" protested the spokeman for the USA Postal Services, Pat McGovern. "The postal workers have no right to make a decision like that!"

    So, six months later, Jean-Claude Baker, son of Josephine Baker, gets his sweet revenge. Last Tuesday he sent off another batch of postcards of his mother - uncensured in her banana skirt, feathers -- and bare breasts -- and this time he held a massive press meeting in front of the post office before mailing his postcards.
    "It is a small tear in the river of liberty........And it is all done in the spirit of Joséphine, my darling mama. She was a fighter and she loved freedom!" proclaimed Jean-Claude in true Bakerish style!

    Jean-Claude Baker is the 13th of Joséphine's twelve adopted children --- as a young adolescent, he was porter in a hotel where Joséphine stayed in Paris, until she took him under her wing.






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  • Saturday, May 12, 2007

    Robert Thompson and Alan Haigh : two very special people


    Some years ago I 'discovered' one of those things that is utterly delightful and that you feel would have been poorer for not knowing about it.
    I walked into the beautiful home of Kevin and Theresa Leeper in Knaphill, Surrey, and saw, for the first time, a little mouse carved on the side of a table leg. It was a Robert Thompson mouse -- and it was beautiful!

    Robert 'Mousey' Thompson (1876 - 1955) was a British furniture maker who worked in Kilburn, North Yorkshire, manufacturing oak furniture. The origin of the mouse is said to have happened accidentally. Robert Thompson and another craftsman were carving a huge cornice for a screen and the other craftsman happened to say something about being as poor as a church mouse. Robert Thompson carved a mouse there and then and it struck him as a lovely trade mark. This was in 1919 and the mouse quickly became his trademark and it is this now world famous `logo' that makes the furniture, whether it be a church pulpit, a fireplace or a dining table, instantly recognisable as the work of the Mouseman of Kilburn.the mouse has stayed until the present day. His company still exists and is now known as "Robert Thompson's Craftsmen Ltd - The Mouseman of Kilburn"





    Recently, years after the discovery of my first Thompson mouse, I friend of mine showed me two beautiful writing boxes that her father had lovingly and expertly restored to their original perfect state. The craftsmanship was exquisite, and as the daughter of a man who restored antique furniture with the skill and authenticity of a master craftsman, I recognised the excellence of this man's work. So it was with joy and pleasure that I got to meet this man - Alan Haigh, a retired maths and science teacher and then headmaster, breaks all the rules of left brain/right brain-, art vs science-, logic vs dreamer theories. His 'official' field is mathematics and science, but his interests cover every spectrum imaginable --- from Motown and progressive music (who knows another 80+ year old who could DJ a hip disco tonight with just the music he has on his Apple Mac at home alone??) to meticulously restoring falling-apart bits of furniture -- and, because he too loves Thompson's carved mice, but because 'he is slow --- because he CAN be'!, Alan has started carving little snails on his work!

    Just as years ago I 'discovered' the Thompson carved mice on furniture --- that I would have been poorer for not knowing about, just so, in meeting Alan Haigh, I feel again as if I had 'discovered' someone quite special and unique-- a true Renaissance man -- and who also carves little snails ..........and my life would have been poorer without the encounter.




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  • Friday, May 11, 2007

    Market Day in Lalinde and Cheese cakes from the Poitou Charente



    Every so often, one discovers something new.

    And the most likely place to make new discoveries is when one travels. Being a tourist in France must be one of the most exciting experiences -- there are just so many things in this country that are unique and special and delightful!

    One of the many great pleasures of living here in the Dordogne, is the availability of fresh organically grown produce that one can obtain at any of the country markets in many of the towns and villages in the area.
    Not only can one buy the most delicious fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood straight out of the sea at Arcachon, locally home made cheeses of every kind, flowers picked from a garden, deliciously aromatic home cured hams and sausages, second hand books, candles, donkey milk soaps and toiletries, exotic silk skirts and sun bleached cotton shirts, but one can listen to an actor reciting poetry or to a group of talented youngsters making the most beautiful music.





    And then -- you discover yet another speciality from the region --- such as these light-as-air fairy cakes made with goat's cheese. Originally from the Poitou Charente, the same area as the first would-be woman president of France hails from, the tourteau fromagé not only look splendid, neatly stacked in perfect little rows, looking like a class photograph of little school boys in their black caps, but taste heavenly!




    One needs a special mould for these cakes, but should you not have one, choose an oven proof dish which is preferably narrower at the base than at the outer rim, about 8 inches in diameter and about 2 inches high.

    The black caps were probably originally an accident, but that is what gives these cakes their individual and special appearance!



    Recipe for tourteau fromagé or cheese cake

    Ingredients

    260 gr flour
    120 gr butter
    250 gr fresh goat's cheese
    175 gr sugar
    6 eggs
    5 cl milk
    a pinch of salt
    1 coffee spoon vanilla essence

    Method

    With the butter, 200 grams of the flour, salt and a little bit of water, make a pastry, cover it and let it stand in the bowl for a couple of hours -- preferably in the fridge.
    In a bowl, mix the cheese with 125 grams of the sugar and the milk
    As soon as the sugar, cheese and milk mixture is well beaten, mix in the egg yolks one at a time, 60 grams of the flour and the vanilla essence
    Beat the egg whites with the rest of the sugar until stiff and fold into the mixture.
    Press the pastry into the well greased mould. Pour the cheese mixture on top.
    Bake in an oven at about 180'C for 45 minutes.
    When baked, either under a very hot grill or with a blow torch, very quickly and evenly blacken the top.



    Try it at breakfast, with your apéritif, with a glass of Haut Poitou white wine, or as a dessert, covered with fruit purée or ice cream. -- or like we did, with a cup of coffee at a little bistro on the Lalinde market square!

    As with all great traditions, there is a special Brotherhood of the Tourteau Fromagé, founded in 1974 in Lezay! Their address is:

    9 avenue Général Faucher
    79400 Saint Maixent



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