Summer in the Dordogne

In summer the Dordogne comes alive with music and cultural activities - so much so that it is impossible to attend even a fraction of what is available.

Last Saturday the street theatre came to Lalinde with a quality performance in the village square that would have drawn crowds in Broadway. A simple story told through music and song, characters on ten-foot high stilts and on mono-cycles, fairy lights and fire eaters, jugglers and contortionists. A veritable feast for the eye and the soul!

More food for the soul on Sunday night when three young local men performed to far too few in the Lalinde church -- a magnificent accoustical venue in which to present the combination of organ and two trumpets. Bach at his spine chilling best and Purcell to die for!

Last night I attended the second of three music recitals in the achingly beautiful Abbey church in Paunat.This church in Paunat is one of a handful of churches in the area that was consecrated in the first millennium - namely in 991 -- but its construction dates back even further --- to 804. Again, the natural stone and uneven surfaces of the very high walls, provided a perfect accoustical chamber for any music, and the gleaming black Bechstein looked quite at home in the soft golden glow of the cherch last night. Roger Muraro was the pianist who regaled us with his lively and animated interpretation of Mozart, Liszt and Chopin. Muraro is best know for his mastery of Messianen's work, and as this composer was so strongly influenced by the delicacy and refined harmonic work of Chopin, it is probably not surprising that Muraro was able to present a fresh and different approach to Chopin's Funereal Sonata opus 25 and the ever-delightful Andante spianato et Grande Polonaire. The last time I had heard this piece was in the open air of Chopin Park in Warsaw and at the time I thought one should never play this piece in any other setting. Hearing it again last night in the ancient abbey church of Paunat, made me change my mind on that one!
Reading up on Muraro was interesting -- almost everything written about him all over the world is positive and complimentary -- especially where it concerns his knowledge and expertise in Messianen's work, but for his interpretation of Chopin, Liszt and his vaast repertoire of other work as well -- that is -- everything and everywhere -- except in the British press.
We also suffered from Roger Muraro, a pianist known in Britain only for having his past Ravel recordings purloined for use under Joyce Hatto’s name in that sad hoax. One might brush off Muraro’s metallic lamé jacket as a
French eccentricity. Far harder to excuse the thumping dullness of his Ravel Concerto for the Left Hand., writes Geoff Brown on Muraro's preformance at the Proms at the Albert Hall last week. Listening to the Brits in the audience last night -- all distinctly dressed in their English-in-the-french-countryside uniform of pale pastel linens for the women and the obiquitous jumper-over-the-shoulders for the men -- I could not help but wonder whether they had all done their homework before the recital and read the same Geoff Brown crit in The Times of last week. Almost the exact words were heard - sounding oh so knowledgeable and erudite, but with nowhere a reference, acknowledgement or a quotation mark in evidence. I shuddered and for a moment thought I had landed back in the counties amongst the Landrover, cashmere and Harrow/Charter House coterie. But how could that have been? Never in Surrey or any of the shires did we enjoy this kind of cultural feast and this quality and variety of entertainment and enjoyment as the French are so good at offering! I was so tempted to mutter out loud the lovely Robert Auden observation about the Brits ---
Let us honour if we can
The vertical man,
Though we value none
But the horizontal one.

Tonight I join a group of friends for a completely different experience - A Blues and Gospel evening in the main market square of the beautiful medieval bastide town of Monpazier -- and Monday night it is back to Paunat for a magical evening of six of the best cellists in France, performing together under the masterful direction of Roland Pidoux. Could anything be more beautiful than an ensemble of 6 cellos? -- Let's hear what the Brits have to criticise there!....

Oh -- and forget not to come join us this weekend in Lalinde for the Annual Wine Fair as well as the musical street party on Saturday night! -- and remember to bring your own cutlery and crockery!

See you there!









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Chateau Lalinde: in the international Headlines

In the Australian Courrier Mail today, a full page article about Chateau Lalinde and the area appears, written by Suzanna Clarke, and accompanied by some of her exquisite photography.


Fit for a princess

Suzanna Clarke

April 14, 2007 12:00am
Article from: The Courier-Mail


WHEN I first saw Chateau Lalinde, a flock of white swans was paddling about on the river below.

The scene was so picturesque I felt I had been dropped into the pages of a children's book, or a ballet.

In a landscape littered with chateaux and castles, Chateau Lalinde is the only one right on the river. Built in 1269, the building wall forms part of the bank of the Dordogne river itself.

The sense of the surreal persisted as I was led to the most beautiful bedroom in which I have stayed. My upstairs room had three large windows overlooking the river.

The small adjoining room was inside one of the two ancient towers, and had a table and two chairs.

The shutters were thrown back and the sound of rushing water filled the room. There were no other houses in sight, only the forest opposite, with the glimpse of an old stone chapel on the crest of the hill.

Legend has it that a fierce dragon once lived in the forest and would let no one ford the river.

When it was defeated by a knight, the townspeople built the chapel in gratitude.

Since the chatelaine, Wilna Wilkinson, took possession of Chateau Lalinde a year ago, she has turned the eight-bedroom, Logis de France three-starred hotel into a homestay with a sense of style. She has revamped the once-utilitarian kitchen into a warm and well-equipped room that the most demanding of chefs would appreciate. Wilna is also a dab hand at gourmet cuisine.

The morning after my arrival I ventured out into the weekly market of Lalinde. With the exclusion of the chateau, many of the medieval buildings were bombed during World War II, but the rebuilt town is typically French provincial and easy on the eye.

The market stretched along the main walking street with a right turn along a narrow canal.

Beneath the spreading branches of the plane trees were stalls selling fresh duck, organic chicken and an abundance of fish; many varieties of pate including the famed foie gras, tomatoes and flowers, berries, vegetables, tapestries, shopping baskets and colourful clothes.

Stopping for a coffee, I was surprised to see Cyrano de Bergerac wandering among the tables.

The actor paused to deliver a speech. Much of it was wasted on me, because it was entirely in rapid-fire French.

As I had every intention of brushing up on my French, that afternoon I attended a language class. Far from sitting in a sterile classroom, this one took the form of a wine-tasting at the nearby Chateau Belingard vineyard.

Count Laurent de Bosredon, a 13th-generation vigneron, explained that the origin of wine in this region dated to the days of the druids, and showed us a sacrificial stone near his chateau, revealed when an ancient oak tree had fallen.

In the old days, he said, if aspiring druids failed their exams they were liable for the chop.

Feeling pleased to be living in the 21st century, we retired to the barn and sampled a prodigious number of white, red and sweet wines.

Imbibing had a loosening effect on reluctant tongues, and we became more relaxed about speaking French. Most of the class was composed of recent English settlers. The French locals say that the English are making another stab at re-colonising the area, as they lost it in the Hundred Years War. Every year the French still celebrate the decisive battle of 1453 with a re-creation.

Over the next few days I saw why the area was so popular with expatriates. Wilna proved a charming and knowledgeable guide as we visited a multitude of pretty villages.

Many were medieval bastide, or fortified market towns.

At Monpazier we stopped for lunch and were intrigued to see locals descend from all directions, carrying wooden cases filled with the first cepe mushrooms of the season. Feeling adventurous I bought a kilogram and that night we prepared them in the traditional way, cooked with garlic in an omelette, which proved mouthwateringly delicious.

Another day we visited Beynac castle, built in 1115, which Richard the Lionheart used as a base between campaigns during the Crusades.

A few years ago it was the setting for the film Joanne of Arc. An immense and impressive structure, the great hall alone would have been big enough to fit an entire army.

That afternoon, after a champagne picnic in the countryside, we went to Chateau des Milandes. African-American dancer and singer Josephine Baker had bought the chateau at the height of her fame in the 1920s. In fact, she had bought the whole village.

Baker had danced at the Folies Bergère in a skirt made only of bananas, accompanied by her pet leopard, Chiquita.

In photos inside the chateau, she looked exuberant, while an occasional cross-eyed pose portrayed a quirky sense of humour.

The rambling Chateau Biron was also on the itinerary.

With rooms furnished in period style, it was as if the occupants had popped out for a minute and would be astonished to find you on their return.

Over the few days I was in the Dordogne, I decided it offered more than any other region I had visited in France.

Besides the abundance of chateaux, castles and also cave houses, you could go canoeing on the wide river, horse-riding, ballooning, fly in vintage aircraft or sample local cuisine at a farm restaurant.

But the highlight was staying in the magical Chateau Lalinde which made me feel, for a few days, like a princess.

Getting there

Chateau Lalinde is available for rent for two to six people for €100 per person, per night, minimum two nights. Larger group tariffs on request.

Price includes continental breakfast.

Chateau Lalinde Website

Learn French at Aquitaine Langues. Beginner to advanced intensives, three hours per day over two weeks: €359.

Aquitaine Langues : Language School

Getting there: Ryan Air flies to Bergerac airport daily from London Stansted.



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